through the chest adapter or through an adjustable V-ring. Replacing the opposite side would mirror
this process.
1.0 DISASSEMBLY:
1.1 Examine the chest strap/main lift web (MLW) junction to determine if the backpad needs to
be removed from the harness to access the junction. If so, remove the pad from the harness to
allow access to the junction [Figure A].
1.2 Many harnesses have the reserve ripcord housing located on the left side. The housing needs
to be disconnected at this location. It is usually secured to a loop located at the chest strap
junction. During the replacement process, this loop will be removed and may be reused if in
good condition.
1.3 Remove the harness
stitching and any other
stitching from the junction
making sure not to
damage the main lift
web [Figure B].
1.4 Remove the old chest strap webbing from the main lift web. Pay particular attention to the
end of the webbing. While most chest straps are installed at right angles to the main lift web,
some have an angle cut at the end for better fit. If the webbing has an angle, make sure to
duplicate it.
1.5 Clean the junction area of old thread, as well as any glue residue on the inside of the main lift
web.
1.6 Take the marking pencil and mark the points of the stitch pattern for the reassembly [Figure
C]. Most chest straps are
installed with a 3-point WW
in a horizontal orientation,
but the rigger should
duplicate the original
design.
1.7 If the procedure is a
replacement of a damaged
chest strap, then it should
be replaced to the original
length. If so, then remove the rolled stop end so that the finished length may be determined.
If the chest strap is to be lengthened, then an appropriate length of webbing will need to be
determined. The finished length should be measured from the outside of the main lift web
plus 3.50" [Figure D].
2.0 REASSEMBLY:
2.1 Cut a piece of webbing to the appropriate length. If needed, cut the MLW end of the strap at
an angle [Figure E].
2.2 Insert the end of the webbing into the MLW junction. Align the end of the chest strap with
the outside edge of the MLW. Insert the housing loop back into the junction as well. Lightly
glue the MLW to the chest strap [Figure F]. Do not use too much glue.
2.3 Some harnesses are pre-sewn along the edges with a medium duty machine and E thread. If
so, duplicate this.
2.4 Using the harness machine and 5-cord nylon thread, sew the junction as marked with the
original pattern [Figure G].
2.5 Mark the length of the chest strap to include enough needed for the stop end. If the chest
strap is to be configured for a thread-thru adapter, an additional 3.50" will be needed for the
roll back.
2.6 After determining the cut length, place a mark at 3.50" on the BACK side of the chest strap.
Fold to this mark [Figure H] and then fold the webbing one more time for three layers [Figure
J].
2.7 Using the zigzag machine, sew across the center of the stop end fold. This will result in a
loose fold that will jam against the adapter in the event of slippage of the chest strap
[Figure K].
2.8 If the MLW was attached to the backpad assembly, reattach as per the original configuration.
If the backpad is attached in such a manner that does not allow inspection of the back side of
the MLW, inspect the stitching at this time before reattaching the backpad.
2.9 Reinstall the ripcord housing and secure.
3.0 INSPECTION:
3.1 Inspect the harness stitching for correct stitch length, tension, and appropriate pattern.
3.2 Reattach the MLW to the backpad as needed.
3.3 The stop end must be sewn and oriented correctly.
3.4 Verify the chest strap is the correct length.
3.5 The ripcord housing must be reinstalled and tacked.
